Cleaning the tomb of the unknown soldier with seven conversations,
January 18, 2020, Plaza Baquedano.
The unprecedented protester violence and destruction of the Chilean
urban insurrection began on October 18, 2019 with the arson attacks on 20 metro
stations in 6 hours in Santiago, the capital city. This terrorism’s epicentre
was Plaza Baquedano, now called Ground Zero. After two months of incessant
violence and destruction, the material damage was estimated at $US 106 million (not
including the Metro of $US 350 million). In Plaza Baquedano are Metro Baquedano
and the Monument to General Baquedano with the tomb of the unknown soldier. The
Monument was constantly attempted to be toppled and the tomb made a permanent protest
pyre. On January 18, 2020 I decided to
clean the tomb’s bronze plaque to reveal the embossed text for anyone who could
read. I had 7 conversations. 1. Carabineros (Chilean Police) checked my Chilean
ID and we talked about the monument. 2. A
woman with two children asked, "do you know where’s Matapaco shrine?” (Matapaco
means Cop Killer and is the protesters’ mythical mascot dog). 3. Two female
Basque tourists talked about protest. 4. Two North American tourists had a Chilean
guide who cynically told me that "things can be replaced ..." and I
finish his protest slogan for him with "but people can't." 5. A
Chilean Father and son read "here is a soldier who fought with General
Baquedano and triumphed”. 6. Chilean males approached and threatened me that “March
will be hell” without knowing we were on COVIDs threshold. 7. Chilean National
Council of Monuments (CMN) representative asked me to stop cleaning because the
plaque is heritage listed and protected. CMN removed General Baquedano’s statue
on March 15, 2021 to protect it. Its empty plinth and tomb are protected by a 3-meter-high
welded metal cube able to withstand the impact of a vehicle travelling at
80KM/H.
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